Mountain Bike Buying Help

[Marek]

I know a thing or two about road bikes, but I have had a look at a few mountain bikes and have found that I don't really know what is good or bad. It seems as though Shimano is the only option (no campag, shame really), but am not sure what the good Shimano kit is. Also, when it comes to forks, they seem to have different suspension systems, air etc, not sure what is best.

Also, do I need rear suspension and what is the score with disc brakes. They seem to have different brake systems that I don't know what is best. Could someone give me an idea of what is on offer, go up in price and what is minimum can get away with when riding around the Surrey hills and possibly moving up to riding around the Welsh countryside once I have got up to speed.

Will probably try to get something off ebay, also, any ideas on size, would I get away with a 20inch or should I go for 22inch? I am 6ft 5ins.

Cheers

Marek....

[Sylv]

So that's two of you then

I'll write more when recovered from the turbo!

[Marek]

For example:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Marin-Nail-Trail- ... 240%3A1318

[kieran]

hi Marek, I'm also in the process of building up an MTB, great fun. From what I have learnt I don't think full sus is required for a bit of XC, disc brakes, hydraulic (oil etc0 or cable, I have gone with avid BB7s, a cable setup (do a forum search here) also do one on forks, I have my eye on a Marzocchi fork with about 100mm of travel. Fox also seem to be big (and expensive). Other bits by hope are also good, look around enough you'll see the same names crop up, certainly there seems to be actually more choice in MTB parts than in road parts. Campag may not be there but there's a load of specialists making good bits.

[Serge]

Hi marek, A minimum bench mark in terms of budget for a good quality hard tail that is solid all round and the frame is worth upgrading as and when bits wear out would be Approx £800. That would get you some thing like a Kona Kula (perhaps last years model). if you can spare a little more the Focus Ravens are superb value (from wiggle) Carbon frame and race worthy parts.

If full sus is more your thing and (if you are considering the Welsh countryside and trail centres etc it should be !) you can stretch a little more maybe £1500 then Specialized Stumpjuper FSR comp and upwards are worth considering. These are solid do it all machines with good kit all round. I myself have the 2008 FSR Expert. But unfortunatly it is a medium so a little small for you. But you are welcome to borrow it and see what you think.

In terms of V brakes Vs disc. Hydraulic disc every time: they are virtually maintenance free and offer huge stopping power in all conditions. Shimano LX/SLX is the minimum shimano groupset IMO. Forkwise consider FOX and Rockshox Reba's and up good quality forks that again are worth servicing and perform well. Forks on cheaper bikes are only good for throwing in the bin once they wear out ! Finishing kit on mountain bikes is often own brand is pretty good (apart from saddles).

I am a huge fan of specialized as they have given me great customer service in the past and ANY warranty issues are quickly resolved (head office is in Leatherhead, handy ).

Any how Hope this helps.

[Will]

What's your budget?

You may be able to find some half-price deals on new '08 bikes...

[Dombo]

Hi Marek, good to see you out the other day (am way below your league normally so never see you on the road CRs ). Glad you enjoyed it.
Second Marco's view on the various makes. Kona go for slightly stronger bikes and you see a lot of them around Leith, Afan in Wales and Gorrick where there are mtb races. Trek and Specialized have big pro race presence so there is good trickle-down of technology. Also the sale option is good ie picking up 2008 models at bargain prices from eg Evans. However don't expect much GB-style advice from them unless you plan hopping around a shopping centre on a bmx. Sizing is less precise than on road bikes as you're constantly moving about so try a few in the 20"-22" range to see what's comfortable.
Re kit, Shimano XT is about equivalent to Ultegra or Campag Centaur/Chorus, LX Veloce/Centaur/105. It is extremely hard wearing - my LX front mech and XT rear are 9 years old and the only original parts on my mtb. XTR is DuraAce/Record equivalent and quite expensive. Re forks, Marzocchi are excellent and they do good air/coil ones which last forever and are infinitely serviceable. My Marathon S forks are 4 years old and serviced once in that time. They also have good resale value should you want to upgrade. I sold the original Marzocchi Atom Bomb forks on ebay after 4 years use for £75! The firm has been in business since the forties so know what they're doing. Hydraulic discs rarely need maintenance and are great in the wet. Generally you get 180mm rotors up front and 160 in back. I run smaller at 160/140 but then I'm only 5'8 and 65kg.
AS for dual sus vs front only, you get a better bike for your money with front only suspension. The bikes tend to be lighter and quicker and there's less to go wrong.
Finally pedals - double sided shimano spds, eg 520s are fine. Most people run shimano pedals so if ever you want to swap rides with your mates (always best not to ride your own bike across a frozen pond!) you can do so easily. Not compatible with road shoes but mtb shoes have grippy soles for the odd time when you need to walk. Specialized BG comps are very good shoes, but again get what fits and feels right.
Hope that helps a bit, and welcome to the dark side.

[higg]

$800 seems a bit cheeky for that bike (ie) nothing special, Alu frame, Standard fork, Hydr disk brakes. You could get something similar new for that price.

I would say minimum to spend is $500 but you get quite a bit more for $700-800. You can get very reasonable hardtails for this range. Check merlincycles (uk), wiggle, evans sales bikes (last chance), pedalon.co.uk, chainreaction.

Safe names for complete bikes are Specialised, Kona, Trek, Gaint.

I would stick to hardtail for first bike, if the bug bites you will want to change/customise after 1-2 yrs when you figure out what you really want (ie) race/XC/trail/rough trail/DH. So no point in going straight for an expensive bike that could turn out not to be exactly what you wanted, that said if you have the cash then you won't go far wrong with a $1500 full-sus (4-5" suspension).

This is a guide to the names/brands

Groupsets (all Shimano)
====================
XTR
XT
LX
Deore
There are other ALivio? Altus? but these really only for leisure use

Frame
=======
Basic alu
Exotic Alum/Scandium
Light steel 853 etc.
Carbon

Brakes
======
Anything with Avid name will be good
Hope
Shimano XTR, XT
Formula
Magura
Hayes
Shimano LX, Deore
These days the disc/v-brake decision is almost made for you (ie) most bikes are sold with discs of some description. That said for starting out there’s nothing wrong with V’s I still use them on 2/3 of my off-road bikes. No doubt discs are more assured in the wet and hydraulics (rather than cable) mean you need less force to pull the brake and are more likely to keep your arms flexible to absorb impacts.


Wheels
=======
Similar brands and quality as road

Tyres
=====
On a pre-made bike take what you get but ask about substitutes before leaving the shop.
Expect to pay about $20 each for anything good. PAnaracer XC Pro is good all rounder.
They will generally fall under the following categories: Dry/Hardpack, All-rounder, Mud/wet weather tyres.

Forks
======
As a beginner go for 100mm travel, basic air or coil spring, avoid "elastomeric"
Marzocchi are always good even the cheaper ones.
Fox also but more expensive.
Rock Shox/Manitou have very wide ranges (ie) some very basic, some very good.
Forks are for safety and control not necessarily comfort although you will also get this. The best forks have good damping to keep the wheels on the ground for longer. Damping absorbs the impact energy, springs just store it for half a second before giving it back.