Vuelta de Lago Atitlan, Guatemala, 3rd December 2006
The following is written mainly for a cycling audience but may also be of passing interest to others hence this wider circulation.
It is difficult to describe the event that took place yesterday by reference to the run of those usually organized in the UK. It was a truly memorable and enjoyable experience. If you ever manage to get to this part of the world in December I can heartily recommend it.
Lago de Atitlan is a large lake, possibly 10 x 5 miles set high among 3 volcanoes. It is an area of stunning natural beauty and has many steep roads and paths, with some technical tracks to test every level of rider depending on ability and fitness.
The day started early, at 6.am, but slowly, with about 150 cyclists gathering on La Playa de Panajachel to wait for a boat to take them Tsununa where the ride began. This process took about 2 hours with registration, the handing out of T shirts and numbers and embarking, bikes and all, onto a large cruiser type boat. Mike, my American friend from Crossroads café, whose South African wife, Adel was also participating brought coffee and set off fireworks as we left.
The group of cyclists was varied with mostly Guatamaltecos, some obviously members of cycle clubs or groups, but most of whom were local enthusiasts. There was a small contingent of ‘Gringos’ and only 4 females. Bikes ranged from the fairly up to date and expensive, to old and shoddy, many with gears not working or bald tyres.
The event was directed by a larger than life character who announced instructions by microphone and followed the ride in a van and complete with loudspeakers playing Salsa and Latin Rap. After initial photos of the assembled group we eventually set off for the first leg. It is important to stress that this event was organized as a ride rather than a race, but that said, competition prevailed at the front of the group. There were 4 distinct legs to the ride with breakfast, lunch and dinner provided and a further transfer by boat for the final leg which took us back into Panajachel.
The firs leg set off up a steep and rocky incline that divided the group, with the mass of people, including myself, caused to walk the first 100 metres. This was mainly due the jam of bikes along a very narrow track. Thereafter, the group sorted itself out and made its way to St Pedro, a somewhat hippy infested village at the foot of the volcano of the same name. Here we had breakfast of a meat sandwhich, banana and orange and awaited the rest of group coming back together before we set off for the next, and most testing leg of the ride.
We then climbed to a height of 2138 metres, firstly on a newly made road, then unmade and then a track and again waited at the top among trees and fields of dried out maize for others to arrive. The following section down to Santiago Atitlan was a fast and furious ride with alternating rocky piste and rough track with sections of fine dust such that it was difficult to see the trail ahead. I managed to stay on the bike but lost my chain a couple of times. I really enjoyed some quite thrilling straights and bends overlooking the lake and the village below.
The next and penultimate section was more like the rolling Surrey hills that I know and love, so I decided it was time to put in an effort on the 14Km route from Satiago Atitlan to San Lucas Toliman where we were to meet the boat for the final transfer. I managed to work my way to the front of the group, and in the last 3 Km could see a rider ahead, as it turned out the leader, but none behind. My advantage was going fast on the flat sections but my disadvantage was facing some 16% climbs. I saw him get off at the next hill but as I also hit the wall ahead I heard riders behind. The result was that 5 of us came into the lagoon together. Technically I was 4th but I’m not counting!
After a long wait and some ice cream from one of the vendors we eventually departed, with many of the riders laying exhausted on the deck and, yet again, the prospect of loading and unloading 150 bikes. Still it was a pleasant journey in the afternoon sunshine of about 22 degrees and breezy, with clear views of all three Volcanoes receding as we departed.
I already knew the final section from San Antonio through Santa Catarina and back to Panajachel. Given a very steep ascent from the final village I decided to pace myself for the ultimate part. On reaching Panajachel we assembled again for a cavalcade into the town greeted by applause and firecrackers. Our dinner was roast Chicken BBQ and fruit juice and we were welcomed by a most beautiful sunset.
As you gather see this was something of a unique experience and excellent value for money for the 100 Quetzales which is only about 7.50 in English pounds.
If you are interested in finding out about the area check out http://www.atitlan.com where Duncan’s website will give you a taste of life in this fascinating part of Central America
Alan Malarkey