After Burgos my recollections of the journey become increasingly hazy. Mostly I was intent on gathering sufficient kilometres to get to Santiago so as to make timely arrangements for my transfer back to Bilbao. I made a tactical decision to forsake Alburgues on the basis that communal wakefulness in groups of 40 plus is a form of torture not worth enduring. That said, I did attend one more, a convent that I happened upon having asked directions of a nun. There were only 2 of us staying there as they admitted exercising discretion over its entry by not advertising its existence. I spent a restful night for a voluntary donation but no hot water.
After Leon which I passed through quite quickly and had a slightly longer break in Astorgia which I enjoyed for its market and Gaudi designed museum. This marked the end of the Meseta a long, flat and straight section with fast paths and quiet roads where I could average about 120 km a day. Leaving Astorgia I headed back up into mountains, passing through the Maragateria, home of the Maragatos, another separate cultural group living within Spain. It was near here where I met one man who was running the camino!
Over the mountains I enjoyed some very fast descents on good roads and eventually passed into Galicia for some stunning countryside and yet more hills. It was here that I lost my way and rode 12 Km down the wrong hill and for the first time turned to my maps to find my route back. Unfortunately I had to climb again all the height that I had lost but I was glad of the break from the official camino and its many walkers. That night, the last of my journey, I experienced 'diarrea prolongada' so after self-administration of appropriate medicine I set off in the hope of making Santiago in one 90Km hop. But there was a fierce headwind and I made slow progress with a steadily weakening resolve. As I arrived in Santiago the heavens opened but luckily a very entrepreneurial pension owner followed me into the main plaza and invited me to her pension, which I gratefully accepted.
I spent the next day looking round Santiago and enjoying its parks as well as watching other 'perigrinos' arrive after their 7 week walk. I had hoped to get a coastal train back to Bilbao but it proved impossible to match up the timetables of the two main different train companies - they make railtrack seem like an integrated system. Instead I caught and Alsa night bus back to Bilbao and spent an agreeable last evening in Portugalete before joining my ferry for sunbathing on the upper deck.
Taken as a whole the camino is a very testing cycle ride with every imaginable form of cycling. My choice of bike, a Scott hybrid with 700mm wheels and cross tyres was an excellent compromise and I didn't get one puncture, and the only maintenance was needing to adjust my brakes for wear about half way along. The latter part of the ride included more and more cyclists, most of whom were on touring bikes. The scenery was stunning, and at this time of year the roadside flora was particularly colourful. I met very few English people and mostly had to use my Spanish.
For any who may consider it in the future, check out some photos here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tizer/
and
buen camino