The wheel (handbuilt) is dead-long live the wheel (factory)

[Jon H]

Andrew, never, never grow a ginger beard, you might get mistaken for Floyd Landis, and look what a ###t he turned out to be.

[mrP(Boonen)VT]

[quote]But never, ever, will you see me riding a bike fitted with racks/paniers and probably never even mud guards.

[Dominic]

Just got in from work and I have a message on the phone telling me that the wheel is unrepairable. Unrepairable in that he feels the wheel would be dangerous ie too concave. I have to go in to discuss the matter with him

[Snoop Doug]

[quote="Dominic"]I have to go in to discuss the matter with him

[Dominic]

Well I went into see Paul at Bike Plus on my way to work this morning. The long and the short of it is that the rim is concave, pretty badly actually, the rim has to be replaced. He quoted me again £90. £50 for the build and £40 for an Mavic Open Pro. I will not be taking him up on the offer. I will be retrieving the wheel and sourcing the parts at some point myself for a go at this wheel building lark.

He was kind enough to try and sell me two sets of wheels one for £90 the other pair for £120. I politely declined after pointing out to him that the prices on the the internet were cheaper.

[Jon H]

Swapping a rim is an easy way to start. If you're using the same type of rim you just tape the new rim alongside the old one, slacken off all the nipples (steady on Finbar), swap each spoke over from the old rim to the new one, tighten everything up then do a bit of trueing.

[mrP(Boonen)VT]

Remembering to line it up correctly - ie match the valve holes and the offsets of the spokes the same way round.

[Grahame]

[quote="Jon Hemming"]Swapping a rim is an easy way to start. If you're using the same type of rim you just tape the new rim alongside the old one, slacken off all the nipples (steady on Finbar), swap each spoke over from the old rim to the new one, tighten everything up then do a bit of trueing.

[Ben]

ci vediamo

[Sylv]

Grahame I have a rear mtb wheel that will need rebuilding (the one which freehub died on the retroride), the hub is kaputt cannot take it apart, i need to find a replacement hub for same spoke length, if that would be useful to do for your tuition let me know.

[Grahame]

Sylv, yes we can rebuild it (better, stronger, faster) as part of the demo.

I was planning to build a new back wheel for me to use on Colorado this summer, but redoing yours will be fine.

[Dominic]

Well I want to thank you all for your help and encouragement. Picked up the old rear wheel from Bike Plus today and I have just swapped the front rim to replace the rear. Took a bit of time but it is done. I will finish tensioning it tomorrow and if I can't get it true I will take it to C&N in Redhill and get them to finish truing it and have saved myself the price of new set of wheels

[mrP(Boonen)VT]

Truing it i.e.side to side is the easy bit - the difficult but is getting it concentric i.e. a proper circle with the hub at the centre. This can easily be checked by looking on the wheel sideways as it spins past the brakeblock. There shouldn't be any up and down "bumps", ignoring any side to side movement.

[Grahame]

[quote="mrP(Boonen)VT"]Truing it i.e.side to side is the easy bit - the difficult but is getting it concentric i.e. a proper circle with the hub at the centre. This can easily be checked by looking on the wheel sideways as it spins past the brakeblock. There shouldn't be any up and down "bumps", ignoring any side to side movement.

[mrP(Boonen)VT]

[quote]ive always found it best to do every spoke up half a turn in sequence repeating until its time to do every spoke up by a quarter of a turn in sequence and then an eighth of a turn in sequence etc and it kind of ends up central both concentrically and laterally