Does weight matter much?
[color=#400080]I don't think so, none are that heavy as there is no heavy gear stuff bolted on.[/color]
What gear is best suited to someone like myself (easy on the jokes guys
)
[color=#400080]Trial and error. You can change easily. I've got a 48 chainring on my Pearson which gives a reasonable selection for me including for road use. You may want to get a bigger one so you can use a bigger sprocket for your track gear as you get a smoother chain run without using a small sprocket. With my 48 I can use 15 or 16 on the back for an 86" or 81" gear - these are probably the best for me on Herne Hill although I need to get down for a few sessions to test, I've done 10s on 86" though and it seems to suit me. I also run either 18 or 19 at the back for 72" or 69" for road riding. Speaking of which it is worth getting a bike with a drilled front fork so you can fit a brake. Then you can either fit a little BMX lever to ride to the track, or switch the bars out to a set with hoods and levers for winter riding. Easy and cheap to do and have a multi purpose bike. I've got a whole range of sprockets as they aren't exensive - for example Dura Ace 1/8th ones are about £12.[/color]
Steel or aluminium?
[color=#400080]I'd go Aluminium. Steel for style and retro but Alu is stiffer and lighter. If buying new then some good deals will be available on Alu frames (GBs used to do a Fort one at a good price, don't know if they still do but Fort still make frames so you might be able to google for a dealer to check prices). Steel would be most second hand from 60s and 70s. These used to be a great buy but since a load of people have gone "courier chic"
then they are selling on ebay at stupidly over inflated prices for anything with track ends.[/color]
When ...............?
[color=#400080]I'd do some sessions and races on the HH Fuji bikes to check you really want it. If you're on a budget then the Fuji ones are quite good I think.[/color]
Why................?
[color=#400080]Just track or for the road as well? If road then you want a drilled fork for a front brake. Will you ride a lot in winter on it? If so then one with larger clearances for full guards is a benefit. May not be as fully focused on the track but where will you use it most? I'll use my Pearson Touche in the track yet it has a longer wheelbase to make it more comfortable on the road. Realistically it's not going to make a huge difference for me so I won't lose out that much. Pretty much most 60s 70s steel frames will have larger clearance for guards anyway as they are from the time when people had one bike and did everything with it. A true track bike will have a very tight clearance for the wheels and no space for mudguards.[/color]
How much...........
?
[color=#400080]Find the one you want and then add the price on to what you're charging Huw, Michelle etc
.
I think you can buy a good alu frame and carbon fork new for about £350-£400, a set of standard wheels are £120 from Pearson's. A reasonable/good alu one can probably be got for about £550-650 depending on what kit you have on it.[/color]
