Brake Query

[-Adam-]

Undo the cable from the caliper, and check whether it releases then. If so, you can be sure it isn't the spring or pivots of the caliper.

In that case, as Marco says, it'll be the cable inners are f*****. Had the same problem with my Trek after it had been sitting doing nothing for months over the summer. If the cables are more than a year old, skip to the end of Marco's advice, just replace them!! Oh, and do it yourself, for the price of a service, you'll easily get yourself a decent pair of cable cutters. It's not difficult!!

[Andrew G]

As above suggestions re checking it's not the return spring but I expect it is the cable/outer, don't get spring problems very often but with the caliper off the bike it's a good chance to give it a thorough clean as it gets a bit gunked up at the back with general road cack.

I had one that didn't release properly and it was were I'd cut the outer it had a slight burr and was catching on the cable so making it like a one way valve that wouldn't return. If there is no burr and the outer is cut cleanly then squirt some WD40 down the outer before refitting. This may work fine and you might not need new cables/outers it could just be that the grease has dried out or been washed/worn away.

[George]

who needs brakes anyway

[Rob C]

They might have helped?

[img]http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m99/BoumtjeBoumtje/MU026_FULL_BODY_CAST.jpg[/img]

[mrP(Boonen)VT]

Get Campag


To the bunker

[Dombo]

On a separate note, while you're in diy fix-it mode, consider replacing the shimano pads with some softer ones eg Koolstop salmons. These are good in wet weather and don't eat rims like the harder Shimano ones.
PS if you don't have cable cutters yet the Park ones are excellent, especially from GBs or Bikeplus either in their 20% sale or failing that our 10% club discount

[mrP(Boonen)VT]

Sean,

Shimano pads not good enough eh?

Ignoring the Shimergy debate for a while.

How is the tube routed along the top tube?
Is it fully encased? or are there cable stops?

I pinched mine against the top tube when I put my new lights on - and wondered why it was such hard work getting to work

Guru P

[Andrew G]

I thought the salmon ones were for carbon rims like yellow swiss stop. They're a softer compound so they don't damage the carbon braking surface but I'd imagine get eaten through fairly quickly on alu rims with normal use.

Never had a problem with any dual pivot brake or any brake pad. They all have enough force to lock the wheel if you should want to which is more than you ever want on the road.

[Elliot M]

The salmon koolstops are definitely for Al rims, although i think they are actually harder than Shimano so as not to pick up grit? Anyway, work well and definitely recommended.

[Mike I]

Go fixed, remove the rear brake. Sorted. And legal.