This might be a bit late for your trip, Hal, but you might want to check out [url]http://www.couchsurfing.org/[/url] for possible free accommodation with real people. We've had a number of people stay with us, and so far no crazed axe-murderers.
Brilliant Hal, can't wait to read the detailed write up of the trip. No laptop and blogging along the way? tsh. I've been trying to think of a reason/excuse to do a long trip myself.... hmm....